Author Topic: GR125 pump stopped at beginning of glyc wash. (Read 8710 times)

Tony · « **Reply #15 on:** March 20, 2013, 04:01:18 PM »

Yes so long as it's in an airtight container.

neisel · « **Reply #16 on:** March 20, 2013, 07:04:28 PM »

Today I emptied & moved the machine. Took the plate off the pump & found a couple of loose but still connected wires. Screwing them down made no difference.

Off to the local electrical / pump guy with the capacitor. "A bit low" was the verdict & prolly not the reason no pumpy. Reason likely to be fried motor. Suggested I bring it in for a free evaluation & estimate.

Forgot to mention on here, I get a mild electrical shock from the pump plug when there is no power going to the processor, as in everything is unplugged. WTF is that?

Bit of a pisser on the pump as it's less than 1 y.o. If it does need a pump rebuild is it a DIY project or specialist job?

Anyone know of a good, cheap rebuilder on here or VOD?

TIA.

Head Womble · « **Reply #17 on:** March 20, 2013, 08:25:17 PM »

Most modern pumps are not economical to repare, a rewind is normally twice the cost of a new one.

You may be able to fit a differant pump depending on the setup of the pipework and how much messing about you want to do.

K.H · « **Reply #18 on:** March 20, 2013, 08:36:21 PM »

Probably a better bet to plumb in a new pump, JGS600 on here sells them
Is the pump not still under warranty, if less than 1 year old

neisel · « **Reply #19 on:** March 21, 2013, 10:53:56 AM »

I'm taking the pump off this a.m. to have a look.

Any theories as to why I'd be getting an electrical shock from the plug prongs when everything is disconnected from power?

Tony · « **Reply #20 on:** March 21, 2013, 11:00:53 AM »

That might be the start capacitor, though usually they are permanently wired so would discharge through the windings.

It sounds like you've taken the electrical cover off the pump but not the pump head end (the bit that does the fluid movement). This should be dismantled to check for blockages, and this is the place you have to be careful not to lose the little pump vanes.

If it's the pump I think it is (got any photos?) then it'll look like this inside:

The little vanes get flung out by centrifugal force, they just sit freely in the slots.

neisel · « **Reply #21 on:** March 21, 2013, 05:54:08 PM »

The pump is at the pump guy for diagnosis, didn't think to take piccies.

It's a Marinox model Diamond 50 & doesn't have removable vanes. I'll get it back tomoz & will update the thread then.

neisel · « **Reply #22 on:** March 22, 2013, 02:14:16 PM »

Pumpman has said it's dead & not worth fixing. Got too hot & burnt the motor out. He said it's Chinese even though the label says Italy. I know SFA about pumps so don't know whether he's talking out of his rear end or not.

He can't tell me what a new one would cost as my label "doesn't have the SP number" which includes the magic code.

Jamesrl · « **Reply #23 on:** March 22, 2013, 02:29:55 PM »

neisel,

Don't mess about looking for a pump, go straight to jgs600 (Glenn) and get one of his 50ltr pumps.

They come with Viton seals as standard AND they have a 1hp motor, proper pump.

Try this link biopumps.co.uk

1958steveflying · « **Reply #24 on:** March 22, 2013, 05:12:45 PM »

Quote from: neisel on March 22, 2013, 02:14:16 PM

Pumpman has said it's dead & not worth fixing. Got too hot & burnt the motor out. He said it's Chinese even though the label says Italy. I know SFA about pumps so don't know whether he's talking out of his rear end or not.

He can't tell me what a new one would cost as my label "doesn't have the SP number" which includes the magic code.

Well it is not a self priming vane pump anyway. With that type of pump I cannot see your thick ish mixture being the cause of your pump failure. I do however think it is voltage related. Lights, 3Kw heater and pump is over the top for a 13amp ext lead and with the voltage drop It would over heat quite quickly.

Edited to add I would also recommend Glenns pumps.

jgs600 · « **Reply #25 on:** March 22, 2013, 06:41:36 PM »

that looks like one of my 36lpm italian pumps i got in about a year ago. sold abou 20 of them..they were over priced and to be honest the italians were a pain to deal with.. ive had 1 come back with a loose impeller but nothing else so far....

yes these deffo cam from italy, cost twice as much as my 50 lpm pumps ...!!!

ive got one of these sitting here in my office at the moment that for some reason pumps backwards.... it works ok though. missing its brass impeller as another member wanted it... free to anyone if they want to pay the postage costs..

£9 would cover it..!!

neisel · « **Reply #26 on:** March 22, 2013, 06:54:53 PM »

Glenn,

Would the impeller on my dead pump work on your impellerless pump?

If yes I'll have that from you.

Head Womble · « **Reply #27 on:** March 22, 2013, 07:40:50 PM »

Well that looks much the same as a TAM105 to me.

neisel · « **Reply #28 on:** April 01, 2013, 10:28:11 PM »

Just to update this thread.....

I bought a 50lpm pump from Glenn (JGS600) & he kindly threw in the backward running Italian pump without the impeller he mentions above. Went to fit my new 50lpm pump on Friday only to discover because it's bigger than the pump which came off that my connections / hoses now don't reach. New hose on the way from Nathan so I should be up & running in a couple of days.

While the machine is in pieces I decided to remove the water washing controls as I'm now acid washing & I also want to glue some additional insulation to all outside surfaces. I've got three sleeping bag mats which, with the hot water tank jacket I've been using, should do a fantastic job at retaining heat.

Just one question, what glue would work with the temperatures encountered in BD processing?

TIA

K.H · « **Reply #29 on:** April 01, 2013, 10:49:37 PM »

Bio seems to eat most glues, I ended up wiring the bottom layers then using silver foil tape on the top layer

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GR125 pump stopped at beginning of glyc wash.